By Chef Paul Fernandes
PANAJI: As cloudy skies herald the arrival of the monsoon, Goa starts preparing for the rains. The weather in the state turns very humid and temperatures rarely drop below 25°C which, along with moisture, poses a problem for storing food during the season with bothersome attacks of pests, mould and bacteria, which in turn leads to spoilage and wastage of food.
To beat this, Goans have adopted various traditional techniques of preserving and storing their favourite ingredients, a process colloquially called ‘purument’, like pickling mangoes and drying fish. Working with properly stored seasonal fruit, vegetables and meat, will contribute to a well-stocked pantry and delicious preparations that pair perfectly with a rainy day.
Sun-dried Mangoes
Mangoes are diverse and adaptable to different ways of storage. They can be turned into delicious pickles by themselves or along with limes, carrots and spices. Many locals also prepare a delicious mango jam called mangaad. The fruit is also dried and stored and can be used in curries, bhajis, etc.
Chillies
The iconic GI-tagged khola chillies grow a vibrant red in the hilly areas of Canacona. These chillies can be dried in the sun and then stored in jars or ground up to create chilli powder that adds a delicious spiciness and vibrant colour to your dish!
Kokum A staple in Goan pantries, kokum is a tangy ingredient used in dals and curries, with several health benefits. To store kokum for the summer, its skin is sun-dried much like mangoes and salt is added as a preservative, known as amsool, which can substitute tamarind in cooking.
Pork
A Goan age-old tradition to preserve pork involves salting boneless pieces of pork belly and then drying them in the sun. Another popular method is Goa’s favourite choris, with the pork meat pickled in vinegar, spices and alcohol, firmly cased and then dried or smoked. Stored away from moisture, it will last you a while and is delicious fried in the form of chilli-fry, curries, and a delicious accompaniment to pulao.
Seafood
Rough seas and fishing bans make it difficult for Goans to access fresh seafood during the monsoons. To satiate this desire, fish like mackerel, Bombay duck, prawns, and more are dried and salted to preserve them and used in mouthwatering pickles, salads and curries. Dried prawns and coconut are combined to create a Goan delicacy called kismur, a popular accompaniment to the Goan thali.
(This article is authored by Chef Paul Fernandes, Faculty Chef at Kamaxi College of Culinary Arts with 40 years of experience in the cruise-line service industry, providing some of the finest cuisines at sea. Chef Paul inspires students with a hands-on, passion-driven approach, leveraging his extensive management training and global culinary insights.)
